A Syrupy Sunday

DSC_0067This past weekend, for my independent field trip, I visited Crown Maple’s sugarhouse at Madava Farms. Crown Maple is a relatively new maple syrup company that began in 2010, but plans to be the largest maple syrup producer in the world in a few years. The owners, Robb and Lydia Turner, lived in New York City but grew up on farms, and wanted a more rural place for their daughters to be able to escape from city life. After purchasing the land, they realized they were sitting on a gold mine of maple trees, and began the process of tapping the trees. In order to grow the company, they also purchased over 4,000 acres in Vermont, to increase the number of trees available for tapping. In total, they had around 90,000 taps total this past year, but have the capacity to have up to 400,000 as they keep growing.

All the trees are hooked up to each other through an elaborate system of tubes, which lead to a vacuum pump in a collection house. In season, which runs during the time in DSC_0070which the days are in the 40s-50’s but the nights are freezing, there are from 1-3 spiles in each maple tree, depending on it’s size and age. After running to the collection house, the sap (which at this point is clear and liquidy, only about 2% sugar) runs through pipes underground to the sugarhouse, which is where the café and gift shop are also located. In the sugarhouse, the sap goes through a variety of steps to remove most of the water, as it is bottled at 67% sugar. Based on the time of year and temperatures outside, the syrup will come out in different forms, as “Amber,” “Dark,” or “Very Dark.” Crown Maple also produces a “Bourbon Barrel Aged” syrup, as well as maple sugar, which is made by cooking the syrup until all the water is gone. They also sometimes have a “Golden” syrup, but the temperatures have not been cold enough the past two years, so they have not gotten any of this flavor.

As part of the tour we took, we got to taste these various syrups. It is amazing how different the various syrups taste. The “Dark” was my favorite—DSC_0068it had a slightly stronger taste than the “Amber,” but did not have the weird aftertaste left by the “Very Dark.” I was not a huge fan of the one that was aged in a bourbon barrel, but I was amazed at how much it tasted like bourbon, considering there was no actual bourbon in it.

Throughout the tour, I was surprised at the efforts taken to make this intensive process more sustainable. Although extracting the sap in the first place is fairly sustainable, since it does not damage the trees and, if anything, encourages the protection of these large areas of old forests, getting the sap from it’s original 2% sugar to 67% sugar takes a lot of energy. However, Crown Maple invested in some machines not normally used in maple syrup production that make this process more efficient, such as using reverse osmosis. Additionally, they capture the steam created from the evaporating water and use it to pre-heat syrup, as well as sterilize the steel barrels they store the syrup in. Crown Maple also value keeping their production local, and try to hire workers from local communities.

Overall, it was a sweet visit to Crown Maple, and I may have to go back for more in the future.

Sawkill & Starling Yards

Last week our class had the opportunity to visit two family farms with very different operations. Sawkill Farm produces meat and associated value-added products, while Starling Yards is devoted mostly to vegetable cultivation. Both of these farms were great examples of scenic, functional Hudson Valley agriculture.

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Sawkill pigs

Sawkill Farm is owned and operated by Kallie and Michael Robertson, a pair with degrees in completely different fields who never intended to begin farming, but now couldn’t imagine life without it. They keep cows, pigs, chickens, and sheep, and two large friendly Maremma guardian dogs. Kallie walked us through the farm, explaining that they also intended to do vegetable farming, but the meat was so successful and the extra work would be so intense that they have decided to keep to meat products and the value-added items they sell in their farm store. The vegetable market is also well covered in the area. She noted that they sell about one pig and half a cow per week; their animals are slaughtered off-site in the only local slaughterhouse. The fruits of their labor are evident as soon as we stepped into the farm store, housed in a picturesque red barn: laid out in neat arrangements were tallow soaps, honey, sheepskins, and more, and several freezers in the back offered up a variety of fresh frozen meat. Sawkill clearly offers quality products that the Hudson Valley eats right up.  

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The bounty in a greenhouse at Starling Yards

At Starling Yards, Kimberly told us that she was once an apprentice to Michael from Sawkill, reiterating the connections between these local farms. Starling Yards is successful thanks to the hard work and elbow grease of Kimberly Hart and Thad Simerly, who cultivate the land owned by the Klose family. Starling Yards grows vegetables for CSA shares, restaurants and wholesale distributors. Although it’s still early in the season and not much was growing, Kimberly was happy to talk to us about how the farm runs. She guided us through several greenhouses where green shoots were happily sprouting, explaining that some of the baby plants will be cut off for early harvesting. We then walked outside to where several workers were preparing the fields for planting and arranging an irrigation system for the first brave seedlings poking out of the earth. As we toured the farm, Kimberly talked about the market for these vegetables, emphasizing that they try to sell as much as they can locally before turning to wholesalers.

Our last stop on the tour was a future tomato greenhouse and a glimpse of the chickens. They do produce some meats and eggs. The sheep are raised there for a dual purpose–their manure is used to fertilize the soil for vegetable growth, and when the time comes, they are slaughtered for meat. One thing that both farms clearly had in common was the careful consideration of their animals’ welfare.

In addition to animal welfare, the farms also exercised consciousness through their business practices. At Starling Yards, they stressed that they are an equal opportunity employer and emphasized that they pay their workers a living wage, something that would likely be less common at a larger operation. As we have seen throughout the semester, owning and operating a small farm presents the opportunity to implement programs, like apprenticeships and educational outreach, that benefit the community around them. In a region so saturated with farms that seek to become a part of the “amenity economy,” it is interesting to see how they balance that practical financial necessity with their own vision for the community around them, especially when many of the farmers are not native to the area. That recalls one of our major questions this semester: why are so many people moving to the Hudson Valley to farm? Perhaps the chance to build and engage with a new community is one, especially for potentially disillusioned ex-urbanites.

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The class strolling in Sawkill

This also recalls Kallie from Sawkill Farm’s point about how the demand for meat at farmers’ markets is huge, yet so few want to become butchers and open a slaughterhouse, which is critical for livestock farmers like the Robertsons. Perhaps due to the sheer quantity of farms just 100 miles north of New York City, getting in to farmers’ markets and tapping into that unparalleled urban consumer base is competitive. Kallie noted that the farmers’ market just next door in Rhinebeck was difficult to get into, raising the question of how else farmers can sell their goods. In the Sawkill Farm Store, they mentioned that the added value products, such as salsa and hot sauce, were from other farms, making a statement about the potential for collaboration among these innovative young farmers. Although they may be located in more remote areas, farm stores can open up more opportunities for profit and exposing different farms’ products to different local markets.

We were glad to have the chance to make connections between these diverse but similar operations. Both of the farms we visited were beautifully kept, the animals were charming, and the plants thriving. For more about Sawkill Farm, visit: http://sawkillfarm.squarespace.com/. For more about Starling Yards: http://www.starlingyards.com/.

Julianne’s field trip: the Beacon Farmer’s Market

Rainy view looking West from the Pete & Toshi Seeger Park
Rainy view looking West from the Pete & Toshi Seeger Park

This past Sunday, I traveled to the Beacon Farmer’s Market to see what is in season and stock up on some goodies for my house. The Market is at the Beacon train station, across the parking lot from the tracks right on the edge of the Hudson River. I arrived to the Market a few minutes before it opened at 10AM, and to kill some time wandered into the Pete & Toshi Seeger waterfront park.

 

View from the Pete & Toshi Seeger Park, looking to the Newburgh-Beacon Bridge
View from the Pete & Toshi Seeger Park, looking to the Newburgh-Beacon Bridge

It was cold and drizzly, and a cold wind was whipping off of the water so after taking a few pictures at the edge of the water I quickly turned back to the Market. Due to the weather, the Market was almost completely devoid of visitors, which meant that I was able to strike up many in-depth conversations with vendors.

The Beacon Farmer's Market
The Beacon Farmer’s Market

I first stopped by the “New Confectioner” tent that was advertising vegan sorbet but was selling peanut butter. (And my love of peanut butter took over – I couldn’t help myself, I bought a tub.) I chatted with the vendor, J. Spica, for a while about Vassar (he has a radio program on WVKR!) and my plans post-graduation. He shared with me that he was a lineman and retired to start this business, but that his real dream is to go to the CIA and take his cooking “to the next level.” I wished I had the opportunity to try his frozen desserts, but I guess I’ll just have to come back on a sunnier day.

Next I sauntered over to the “Common Ground Farm” tent and bought a bag of mixed salad greens, including some baby kale and a new green that I had never tried before, called “mizuna.” An Asian green, it has a mild peppery taste similar but milder than arugula. Common Ground also had “microgreens” for sale, which are essentially the harvested shoots of salad greens. The vendor that I talked to noted how they have a high density of nutrients for their small size and are extra crunchy, making them a great addition in salads, or on soup or sandwiches. She reiterated what we’ve heard from other vegetable farms recently: that at this point in the season, not much is growing besides early greens.

Next, I stopped by “All you Knead,” which offered pastries and loaves of freshly baked bread. I grabbed a cherry-cheese pastry (apparently the most popular pastry at the Farmer’s Market) and a loaf of sourdough bread. Both were delicious (despite my best intentions, once I brought the loaf of bread home it was gone by Monday morning!).

I finally visited the “Fishkill Farms” tent. Similar to “Common Ground,” they were offering mustard greens and kale, but also had potatoes and apples. I picked up a bunch of mustard greens (I really should describe it as a bouquet  since the presentation of various strains of mustard greens bunched together was so beautiful!), and asked about how Fishkill can be offering fresh apples to its customers in late April. The vendor explained that the apples he was selling had been picked in September or October like the rest of the apples, and kept in cold storage (at a temperature lower than fridge, but not frozen) to be sold throughout the year. He noted that some apples actually improve with time in cold storage as this long-term storage can allow sugars in some of the apples to develop.

I left the Market chilled and pretty damp, but with some greens and baked goodies that I was excited to bring back to my house. I can’t wait for another chance to venture down again (and hopefully not in the rain this time!).

Everything Goating Great

Lily and a Kinder
Lily and a Kinder

This Friday, April 22nd, our class took a trip to another wonderful sustainable farm in the Hudson Valley: Hudson Valley Kinders & Kritters. When we arrived at the farm we were greeted by Stephanie, who is one of the farm’s two owners. She explained how she had grown up raising chickens; she and her partner became interested in goat farming after first acquiring a couple of goats for their own personal use in their backyard. Once they decided to begin goat farming, they realized they needed land for their goats—so, they turned to the Farmer Landowner Match Program, which is run through the Columbia Land Conservancy and the Dutchess Land Conservancy.

The Farmer Landowner Match Program matches landowners with prospective farmers who need land for their work. It is a mutually beneficial system that helps promote sustainable farming: the landowners get tax breaks because their land is being used for agricultural purposes, and the farmers get to use the land for much less than it would cost to buy.

Terrance, one of the people who helped found the Match Program five years ago, is from the CLC; he also came to Kinders & Kritters to talk to us about the philosophy behind the program. He said that the landowners are mostly people of retirement age who don’t farm, or farmers who don’t use all their land and want to rent out the extra. The farmers are often young people looking for a chance to farm without buying land. Terrance was excited that the program is working for young people and explained that the current U.S. farming population is on average 59-years-old. He said programs like this one are popping up all over the country, and are a way to allow a younger generation to farm.

Hudson Valley Kinders & Kritters is a perfect example of the Match Program at work. Stephanie’s farm is on a piece of property in Red Hook owned by a couple and their children. The family is actively engaged in the farm and the kids especially like to help out. 

After we met Stephanie and Terrance, it was time to pet the goats. First, we dipped our boots in antibacterial cleanser and signed wavers just in case of any goat accidents. Stephanie explained that they had two kinds of goats, which they raised for both meat and dairy. The Kinders were her favorite and she explained how she had become attached to them and they would come sit in her lap. She also told a story of “kidding”—helping to birth baby goats—in forty degree weather, and how she took the baby goats and put them in her sleeping bag with her to keep them warm. In fact, when we arrived, a baby goat had just been born about forty minutes earlier! Stephanie did not seem phased and happily talked to us about her goats for a while.

The goats were incredibly fun to play with and we even got to pick them up! There were plenty of babies passed around and it was sad to say goodbye.

Holy Sheep!

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Glynwood Center (Eilis’s photo)

On Friday, we ventured down south to Putnam County to visit Glynwood Center. Although Putnum County is not known for its agricultural productivity because of the hilly terrain, Glynwood is thriving as a sustainable farm focused on educating young farmers.

Glynwood Center is located on the historical 225-acre Perkins estate, but today is has been transformed into a certified organic vegetable farm and transitional organic meat producer. They take advantage of the hilly environment by allowing their livestock to graze in areas that otherwise would not be used for anything. This helps their organic approach, as they are able to rotate the livestock through the fields to serve as a natural fertilizer and herbicide (by eating the weeds).

Beyond the produce and livestock, Glynwood Center is also a institute for education and agritourism. They house five apprentices at a time, focused on either livestock or vegetables, who engage in an intensive year-long program combining hands-on work in the fields with in-class instruction. Additionally, Glynwood Center has 20 guest rooms for visitors to stay in. These could be people interested in learning about local food, or just looking for a rural escape from the business of New York City.

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Ken Kleinpeter and his loyal friend (Baynard’s photo)

Glynwood Center also works with nearby farmers to help them increase the value of their products. In 2010, they launched the Cider Project, an international collaboration between farmers in France and in the Hudson Valley. This project encouraged farmers to consider turning their leftover apples into hard cider to expand their economic opportunities. The Cider Project was a great success, and now they are pursuing other value-added projects, such as establishing a local charcuterie market.

Our lovely tour guide for our unexpectedly cold adventure was Ken Kleinpeter. Ken grew up in Louisiana, and has a long history of working in sustainable agriculture. He ran the first sheep dairy operation in the United States, and worked in Bosnia as a USAID consultant. In 2005, he joined Glynwood Farms as the Director of Farm and Facilities and is currently the VP of Operations.

One of our favorite moments was when Ken led us into the old bank barn on the property. This barn is strategically built on a slope, so the hay trucks could unload the hay at the top, which would fall to the bottom where the animals were waiting to feed. This barn is no longer operational for farming purposes, but it has a new function as a sought-after location for high-fashion photo-shoots. Well-known companies like Brooks Brothers, Anthropologie, and many more have yearly photo-shoots on the Glynwood property, providing another source of income for the farm.

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Our favorite baby lamb standing (almost) tall and proud (Dahlia’s photo)

However, the highlight of the trip was all the animals we saw. When we stepped out of the van, Dudley, Ken’s loyal farm dog that followed us throughout our tour, greeted us enthusiastically. We briefly said hello to Ken’s horses, a mix of retired racehorses and riding horses. The tour culminated in the new barn, full of cows, lambs, and pregnant goats. Our favorite was a six-week old lamb recovering from pneumonia, who was still figuring out how to walk.

After unintentionally filming the first part of our blooper reel, it began to snow, signaling that it was time to say goodbye to Ken, Dudley, and their wonderful sustainable farm.

If you want to learn more or visit for yourself, check out their website at https://www.glynwood.org/.

Stormfield Swiss Farm

On Friday April 1st, our class visited Stormfield Swiss, a mid-size dairy farm run by married couple Jennifer DeForest and James Lawrence. The farm is a partner in Hudson Valley Fresh (HVF), a dairy cooperative run by Sam Simon, a former orthopedic surgeon who retired and started his own dairy farm (he had grown up in a dairy farming family). Simon was also present at our visit and talked to us about his program and many elements of dairy farming in the Hudson Valley. After Simon returned to farming, he realized that small and midsize dairy farmers were losing profits, as they were being paid the same amount for their product as a dairy farmer in the 1970s, and not being compensated for the additional expenses that accompany higher quality milk production. He started his own cooperative label, HVF, in 2007. Each of the nine family farms who participate are all equal partners and receive a static price for their milk, which is much higher than they would receive for generic. To Sam, sustainable agriculture is about economic sustainability for farms and farmers. In fact, Jenn said that if they had not joined HVF in 2009, they would probably not still be able to operate their farm. Sam told us, echoing ideas we discussed in class both with Professor Nevarez and with Ed Steinman, that HVF’s economic inflows mostly come from New York City. NYC coffee houses are the biggest purchasers of their milk, because the higher fat content makes great lattes!

Stormfield Swiss milking barn. (Photo by Sophia).
Stormfield Swiss milking barn. (Photo by Sophia).
Sam Simon. (Photo by Baynard)
Sam Simon. (Photo by Baynard).

Although rain was predicted, it was 75 degrees and sunny by the time we got to the farm, where we got to pet, see, talk to, and take selfies with cows and calves, peacocks, goats, chickens and a guard llama. Jenn, James, and Sam were all incredibly welcoming, showing us around the pastures, milking barn, and milk storage room.

Mary and Julianne with a COW!
Mary and Julianne with a COW! (Photo by Mary and Julianne).
Llama princess. (Photo by Baynard).
Llama princess. (Photo by Baynard).
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Week-old male calf. (Photo by Julianne).

Stormfield Swiss was owned by Jennifer’s great grandparents who bought the farm in 1920. Ultimately, the price of land in the Hudson Valley made it impossible for her family to continue to operate the farm, but after the farm was bought by a man who had once worked there, he allowed Jenn and her husband to rent the land for their own dairy farm. They have about 80 cows, most of which are Brown Swiss, making them the smallest partner in HVF. They have no employees, and milk their cows twice a day, once at 5 am and once in the afternoon. During the morning milking, Jenn sets up two cots in a room adjacent to the milking barn for her two young children to sleep while she works.

We learned a lot of interesting things, but two ideas in particular surprised. First, Jenn and Sam explained why HVF coop farms do not pursue organic certifications, noting that the organic label is difficult to attain for small farms due to expense, and that all of their milk is free of anti-biotics, ensured by rigorous testing. They also emphasized that local is very important, and that organic can be from anywhere in the country. Finally, Jenn told us that since she cares about her animals, it feels wrong to her to withhold medicines that would be disallowed under the organic certification. This surprised us because it seemed at odds with the dominant narrative surrounding local/organic foods.

Another interesting thing that Sam talked about, speaking from his experience as an orthopedic surgeon, was the importance of children drinking milk, in particular whole milk. Speaking to the importance of absorbing and storing calcium using the Vitamin found in higher fat contents for people under the age of 20.

We ended our visit with delicious samples of HVF chocolate milk and yogurt and drove back to campus with lots of great pictures and maybe a little bit of cow snot on our jeans!

Yum!
Yum! (Photo by Baynard).
Yummm Yum! (Photo by Baynard).
Yummm Yum! (Photo by Baynard).

–Julianne and Mary

Sophia and Moo Friend

Hi! My name is Sophia Burns and I am a sophomore Urban Studies major from South Jersey (aka the breadbasket of the Garden State). I love the outdoors and have been getting more interested in the Hudson Valley through my field work, so I’m really looking forward to all that we’ll be doing in this course!

Here I am with my “moo” friend. Many cow kisses accepted on this day.

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Cowboy John

Hello! My name is John Tapscott and I’m a senior from Tupelo, Mississippi.  I study economics and German studies, but now it’s time I finally learn more about the Hudson Valley. Here’s a pic of me with a Swiss Brown cow at Stormfield Swiss Dairy Farm.

 

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