Historic Costume Preservation Workshop

As shown in our last video, this ensemble is an interesting case for stabilization, thanks to its (perhaps) upside down sleeve.

From 1992.003

Some notes:

Bodice: Ivory silk satin with gold and pink floral metallic brocade; pink silk ribbon; metal boning; metal hooks and eyes; pink synthetic lining; pink silk lining; white cotton grosgrain ribbon waistband;

Fitted brocade silk princess-seam bodice with modified puff sleeves with gathers at the underarm and longer at the bottom of the sleeve than the top, and square neckline. Open at front of interior panel brocade with pink ribbon lace-up closure w/ hand-stictched holes. Six-piece paneled back with slightly curved boat-neckline at back. 7 pieces metal boning in back interior and interior grosgrain ribbon waist tape with hook and eye closures at front. Two hooks at center back of waist tape (to connect to skirt). Synthetic additions at center interior front and hem of sleeves.

Skirt: ivory silk satin with gold and pink floral metallic brocade; starched pink cotton lining; pink silk lining; natural cotton lining; tan grosgrain ribbon; cream silk chiffon ruched trim

full gored brocade skirt with back fullness and room for pad(?); longer in back; pink piping around waistband under grosgrain ribbon; one pocket on right hip; 6 gored panels and 3 godets; cream silk ruched trim at hem and one 2.5 inches up from hem

Shoe: ivory silk satin with gold and pink floral metallic brocade; leather; gold (leaf?); natural canvas; brass nails; pressed wood

two pieces of brocade on exterior; double bow at toe cleavage; pointed toe; Louis heel shape; 9 nails into heel

label reads: “Robes de Bal / Russell & Allen / Old Bond Street LONDON” printed on inner waistband
“Mrs. Crosby” handwritten on small hand sewn tag

“rip in fabric of bodice top right front, 2nd row of trim around hem partially detatched, fabric of skirt coming apart from waistband, silk of shoe worn on the back of heel and left side, interior silk lining of bodice shattered, original silk lining possibly entirely gone, leaving pink cotton lining unfinished interlining; natural linen original reinforcement for train safety-pinned to interior, pink synthetic additions to interior of bodice, brocade panel stolen from inside of skirt used as center front panel on bodice (because actors weren’t small enough?)

What do you think of it? Here’s a slideshow with more images:

You may or may not have seen the video about this ensemble – but here are some images and notes as well:

From 1992.001

“pink and grey bustle ensemble
2 piece of grey silk taffeta, trimmed with pink silk taffeta and pink fringe
Bodice of taffeta
Skirt of taffeta
Fullness at back to accommodate bustle
Train

pocket in right front of skirt”

Condition issues: “Perspiration stains underarms- starting to deteriorate
No tears
Missing 3 buttons (but only one would show)
Skirt- hand stitches (in blue thread) at back of skirt are attempted repairs. Placket doesn’t match up, perhaps as a result, altered for use as a costume
Tear in front second drape near CF”

This is a good candidate for stabilization – it’s not in horrible shape, but the skirt definitely needs to be re-draped.

We’ve always wondered about this dress – we refer to it as pink and grey, and have long wondered if that’s a connection to Vassar’s past school colors. Of course, the grey is somewhat blue-grey, and maybe it’s just a coincidence. We’ve also recently discovered that the ensemble may have been donated by someone from the Adriance family of Poughkeepsie – so there’s some provenance research to be done there. How do we know that? Sometime in the seventies, several of the objects were worn (gasp!) for a fashion show on campus, and photographed for the Vassar Quarterly. This was in that group, and the caption for the photo refers to it as “a gift of the Adriance estate.” Hmmmm.

Here’s a slideshow with more images, although it doesn’t show the 3rd outerwear piece that was recently reconnected with the rest of the ensemble (as shown in the video):

Here’s another candidate very much in need of stabilization:

From 1992.013

However, it might already be too far gone.
Here are some notes:

Silvery blue silk, diagonal weave taffeta, fish motif; natural polished cotton; green silk velvet; red silk velvet; red taffeta; periwinkle silk; white cotton waistband; hemp hem lining; metal hook and eyes, brass

Fitted bodice; full skirt

a. skirt: floor length; fitted at waist; five panels; two tiers of ruffles at hem; velvet at inner hem, lined with hemp; polished cotton skirt lining; one pocket on right hip; cotton waistband, later addition; hook and eyes at waist center back

b. bodice: waist length, five piece; fittled two piece full length sleeve, gathered shoulders, split cuff on either side of wrist; mandarin collar with inset periwinkle silk over center front of bodice extending to waist; red velvet lapels; red velvet waist band; 18 interior brass hooks and eyes to close center front, 3 to close neck; boning at waist; three tapered panels in back

Condition issues: Tearing at collar. Shattering. Staining. Fabric worn in skirt. Pin in hem (rusty).

and here’s a slideshow with more images: