Vassar Experimental Garden

Fall greens: arugula, mizuna, other mustard greens, mâche, claytonia, tatsoi, lettuce, spinach

Roots: radish and turnip

(seedlings started during summer)

Brassicas: kale, collards, nappa cabbage, bok choy, chard (not actually a brassica but just go with it)

All transplanted beds should be covered with light weight row cover to help protect against pests (link to pest entry) and speed their growth

Whatever is ripe/ready: tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, broccoli, cabbage, radish, turnip, summer squash, cucumber, melon, escarole/frisée, sweet corn, tomatillos, okra

Selectively/over time: greens, beets, carrots, chard, collards, kale, leeks, onions, herbs

Entire crop at once: potatoes, dry beans

(+ same as above)

Potatoes (see post)

Dry beans (see post)

Dry corn (see post)

garlic

Entire crop at once: remaining basil (make pesto and freeze) and dill

Whatever is ripe/ready: tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, broccoli, cabbage, radish, turnip, summer squash, cucumber, melon, endive/frisée, sweet corn, tomatillos, okra

Selectively/over time: greens, beets, carrots, chard, kale, leeks

If nighttime frosts (< 32°) are predicted then crops should be covered with heavy weight row cover (This row cover is effective for temperatures down to 26°. Ideally the cover can be applied in the evening and opened up in the late morning)

Entire crop at once: winter squash (when vine dies)

Whatever is ripe/ready: tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, broccoli, cabbage, radish, escarole/frisée, turnip, tomatillos, okra

Selectively/over time: greens, beets, carrots, chard, collards, kale, leeks, napa, bok choi

Winter squash

If nighttime frosts (< 32°) are predicted then crops should be covered with heavy weight row cover

Finished summer crops: tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, tomatillos, okra

Selectively/over time: greens, beets, carrots, chard, collards, kale, leeks, onions, brussels sprouts, Jerusalem artichoke

Cover crops with plastic. (Remember carrots and beets can be overwintered, cover with mulch and cover with season extender- cold frame, low tunnel, etc. No need to cover brussels, cabbage, broccoli, Jerusalem artichokes)

(same as above)

Prepare beds that aren’t planted with winter crops for planting by turning in compost and cover with layer of mulch. In early Spring the mulch can be pulled off and the beds will be ready to go.

(same as above)

(same as above)

Keep season extending structures clear of snow build-up

Brassicas: cabbage, broccoli, kale, chard, collards, bok choi, napa cabbage

Asters: lettuce, escarole/frisée

(same as above)

Solanaceous: peppers, eggplant, tomato

Alium: onion, leek, scallion

Apium: celeriac

(same as above)

Rhubarb crowns, horseradish roots (both in herb circle), peas

Greens: arugula, mizuna, mixed mustard, spinach (sow these under cover to speed up growth. Start taking cover off during the day once seedlings are established), lettuce (don’t sow lettuce under cover because it does not germinate if it is too hot)

Brassica: radish, turnip (also cover)

Lilliaceae: asparagus crowns

(same as above)

Cucurbits Summer squash, zucchini, cucumber, melon (these can be started in mid-March)

Herbs: cilantro, dill. Parsley

Brassicas: broccoli, cabbage

Solanaceous: tomatoes (for late summer/fall)

Brassica seedlings started in February (Transplant into pre-prepped and mulched. Cover these beds with plastic or heavy row cover a week before transplanting to warm the soil. Leave cover on)

Chives

Young greens and overwintered crops

everything

dead overwintered crops

everything

dead overwintered crops

Potatoes and corn

Cucurbits: summer squash, zucchini, cucumber, melon

Solanaceous: pepper, eggplant, tomato

Alium: onion, leek, scallion

Cucurbits: melon (for late summer/early fall) and Winter squash

Apium: Parsnip

tomatoes

Brassicas: brussels sprouts, cabbage, broccoli

Brassicas

Beets, carrots

Alium: scallions, garlic scape

Garlic (if leaves are starting to die)